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Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose of pepper sauce. Favorite appetizers include accras (salted codfish fritters), boudin (highly seasoned blood sausage), and crabes farcis (stuffed land crabs). Langouste (lobster), lambi (conch), chatrou (octopus), and ouassous (crayfish) are considered delicacies. Souchy (Tahitian-style ceviche), raw fish that is "cooked" when marinated in lime juice or similar marinades, is best at seafront restaurants. Moules et frites (mussels in broth served with fries) can be found at cafés, both in the Marina in St-François and Bas du Fort Marina. Many of the best restaurants are in Jarry, a commercial area near Pointe-à-Pitre. All restaurants and bars are smoke-free, as decreed by French law.
Diverse culinary options range from pizza and crepes to Indian cuisine. For a quick and inexpensive meal, visit a boulangerie, where you can buy luscious French pastries and simple baguette sandwiches. Look for the recommendable chain Baguet. Good news: while menu prices may seem high, prices include tax and service, but a small extra tip in cash is expected, just as in France. In most restaurants in Guadeloupe (as throughout the Caribbean), lobster is the most expensive item on the menu.
What to Wear: Dining is casual at lunch, but beach attire is not appropriate except at the most laid-back beachside eateries. Dinner is slightly more formal. Long pants, collared shirts, and skirts or dresses are appreciated, although not required. Guadeloupean ladies like to "dress," particularly on weekends, so don't arrive in flip-flops—they'll be in heels.
You may hear that one of the best tables on the island is found at the small hôtel de charme La Rose du Brésil---and the rumor is true. Shellfish abounds here, and desserts are inspired by the island's tropical fruits. First, order a fresh-squeezed lime daiquiri. You will likely want two.
Delicious Caribbean-accented French cuisine draws diners to this open-air restaurant, where a specialty is fresh lobster plucked from the petite lagoon that beautifies the deck. The classy, colorful, open-air dining room lounge has deep leather chairs and, on occasion, a piano player and live music. You can listen whether you just have a drink at the bar or sit down for dinner. Lunch patrons dine on the terrace near the infinity pool. With your feet dangling in the water and an exotic cocktail in hand, you can watch the sea churning below.
A historic sugar mill is the backdrop for refined French preparations paired with local produce. The lunch menu is a mix of classic restaurant food and lighter dishes. A prix-fixe menu including a main course and a starter or dessert is available. At dinner a more classically French menu, with Caribbean influences, offers both meat and seafood. It is a marriage of tradition and modernity, with rich flavors and Creole specialities. Desserts are dazzling, with the pastry chef turning out towers, sauces, and glacés. On Friday and Wednesday nights, there's piano music in the lounge. Hotel guests also eat breakfast here and on the terrace overlooking the sea. Some dinner tables are now set out there, too.
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