21 Best Sights in Salvador and the Bahia Coast, Brazil

When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.

One of the most popular hikes in the national park leads to the country's tallest waterfall, 1,312-foot Cachoeira da Fumaça (Smoke Waterfall). Most of the falling water evaporates before reaching the ground, hence the odd name. A 6-kilometer (3-mile) path from the village of Caeté-Açú takes you to the canyon's rim, where you can marvel at the smoke rising from above. Visiting the waterfall from Lençóis takes the best part of the day and should be done with a guide.

Cross over the rustic wooden bridge to the small town of São Félix set across the water to pay a visit to Centro Cultural Dannemann. This cultural center is housed in a stunning colonial building that acts as both a working vintage-cigar factory and a contemporary-art space.

A symbol of Salvador, St. Anthony's Fort has stood guard over Salvador since its construction in 1534, and is recognized as Brazil's oldest military structure. The lighthouse atop the fort wasn't built until 1696, after many a ship wrecked on the coral reefs around the Baía de Todos os Santos entrance. Inside, the small Museu Náutico has permanent exhibitions of old maps, navigational equipment, artillery, model vessels, and remnants of shipwrecks found by archaeologists off the Bahian coast. Go in the late afternoon to climb the 22-meter tower before watching the impressive sunset with the crowds who gather on the bank below. Across the road, don't miss stopping by Dinha's barraca for acarajé; her version of the typical Bahian speciality is rumored to be the best in town.

A 15-minute hike takes you down to the mouth of the Lapa Doce cave, where you will see a stunning collection of large stalagmites, stalactites, and columns. Access is only possible with a local guide, included in the price of admission along with a flashlight for navigating in the dark and exploring the unique frescoe-like coloring and natural sculptures. Local guides only speak Portuguese, so if you are looking for greater insight, plan to go with your own guide as part of a longer day experience. Because it's so accessible, Lapa Doce is especially recommended for children.

Swim or snorkel in the crystal clear (and safe) waters of the Papa Gente, a 3-meter- (10-foot-) deep natural pool formed by reefs at the ocean's edge. Located 1½ km (1 mile) from Projecto Tamar, walk north along the beach when the tide is low and look out for a coconut vendor, who sits in front of the path that leads to the pools and has masks and snorkels for rent. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; snorkeling; swimming; walking.

Established in 1985, the 1,520-square-km (593-square-mile) national park is one of the most scenic places in Brazil. Here you can find crystal clear creeks, rivers with abundant rapids and waterfalls, and more than 70 grottos and caverns. There are also the tall peaks of the Sincorá Range; the highest point is Barbados Peak (2,080 meters/7,000 feet). The flora and fauna of the area, which include many varieties of cactus, orchids, and bromeliads, and more than 200 bird species, have been the subject of two extensive studies by the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew in England. The best time to visit the park is in the dry season, from March to October, but expect high temperatures during the day (rarely above 36°C/100°F). From May to July, temperatures might drop to near 10°C (45°F). The park does not have a visitor center, but there's a small ranger headquarters in the town of Palmeiras.

Clean sand, simple kiosks, and a beautiful view make this long stretch of golden sand a favorite among good-looking locals and surfers drawn to the strong waves. Buses, which run regularly from Barra and the City Center, take just over an hour; the journey is well worth it if you are looking for a serious beach day. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming; walking.

This popular beach in Barra draws a wide variety of sunseekers from across the city and is a convenient option if you're staying in the hotel districts of Ondina and Rio Vermelho, where rock outcroppings make swimming dangerous and pollution is often a problem. Chairs and umbrellas are available for rent, and you can purchase food from one of the many restaurants lining the promenade. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers; surfing; sunset.

One of the northernmost beaches in the Salvador municipality, Praia Stella Maris's long stretch of sand is ever-popular with families in spite of the strong waves. The myriad of food-and-drink kiosks, serving delicious salty snacks and água de côco (coconut water), get busy on the weekends. The airport is located just 10 minutes away. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets; parking (fee). Best for: surfing; walking.

The headquarters of this nationwide turtle preservation project, established in 1980, has turned what was once a small, struggling fishing village into a tourist destination with a mission—to save Brazil's giant sea turtles and their hatchlings. Five of the seven surviving sea-turtle species in the world roam and reproduce on Brazil's Atlantic coast, primarily in Bahia. During the hatching season (September through March), workers patrol the shore at night to locate nests and move eggs or hatchlings at risk of being trampled or run over to safer areas or to the open-air hatchery at the base station. It is here that you can watch adult turtles in the small swimming pools and see the baby turtles that are housed in tanks until they can be released to the sea, something you can take part in between December and February. The headquarters also has educational videos, lectures, and a gift shop. Thirty-three other Tamar stations on beaches across Brazil protect about 15 million hatchlings born each year. If you are looking for a more intimate experience, seek out one of the smaller bases, as this project is certainly the most commercial.

One of the region's most popular hiking trails runs along a section of Rio Lençóis called Rio Serrano. It's surrounded by exuberant forest, now protected as municipal park. The reddish-color water is due to organic matter from the forest floor. You can bathe and relax in several natural pools—they look a bit like hot tubs—formed on the rock-strewn riverbed. There are also three waterfalls scattered around the surrounding hills, best accessed with a local guide. To reach the easily accessible trailhead to the river, head up the hill after Hotel de Lençóis.