4 Best Restaurants in St-Paul-de-Vence, The French Riviera

The food might be a bit overpriced, but where else in the world could you eat in a dining room under a Picasso, on a terrace beside a ceramic Léger mural, or next to a pool amid an idyllic garden with a Calder sculpture? The quirky but unpretentious Provençal menu has hardly changed over 50 years—the hors d’oeuvres de la Colombe (basket of crudité and hunks of charcuterie), salmon quenelles, and Grand Marnier soufflé flambé are as acclaimed as ever. If you can't afford a room at the world-famous hotel but still want wonderful Instagram moments, a dinner here does the trick.

The new owners of this St-Paul-de-Vence institution in the center of the old village have magically created a contemporary bistro, where a few seats on a second-story terrace (book in advance) overlook the street below. Choose the plat du jour, or order from an à la carte menu with everything from an organic egg to a chicken burger to a Jerusalem artichoke and shimeji-mushroom confit with smoked duck breast. Half bottles of wine are available, so sit on the terrace with une verre, and breathe in the views of the fountain square—an experience that more than compensates for occasions when service is slow or the kitchen runs out of certain dishes.

Before you plunge into the dense tangle of streets in old St-Paul-de-Vence, stop on the ramparts under the century-old lime tree for a meal or snack at this atmospheric café, where the breezy terrace looks onto the valley and the Alps. The kitchen makes more of an effort than you might expect, turning out colorful salads (crispy goat cheese salad with figs) and pastas at lunch and more serious fare in the evening. Pop by for the Salon de Thé (daily 3–6 pm), which offers much more than Mariage Frères tea: red berry tiramisu, crepes, and coffee on a separate menu. Across the street, Le Tilleul sells freshly made, sorbet and ice cream for takeout in flavors like wild peach and almond milk with sour cherry.

From just outside the walled village, you can see this restaurant that was once a 17th-century oil mill. Owner Frédéric Rossi hired the young chef Olivier Depardieu, who did his apprenticeship at the Colombe d'Or and worked at Château Saint Martin, to create regional dishes like risotto with artichokes and langoustines or sea bass with pole-fried vegetables. This place is best for a hearty dinner rather than a light lunch, especially since the terrace doesn't get much shade.