St. Petersburg Restaurants

More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.

Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.

Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.

It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.

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  • 1. L'Europe

    $$$$ | City Center

    The breathtaking surroundings—there's an art-nouveau stained-glass roof, shining parquet floors, and private balconies—are fit for a tsar, as are the prices. The mouthwatering menu includes some dishes inspired by authentic royal recipes, among them beef filet with a bacon and mustard champagne sauce. The chef's tasting menu gets off to a memorable start with a pair of eggshells filled with truffle flavored scrambled egg topped with Osetra caviar. Reserve well ahead, especially in summer.

    1/7 ul. Mikhailovskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-329--6000

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential, Jacket and tie
  • 2. Mechta Molokhovets

    $$$$ | Vladimirskaya

    A refined restaurant with prerevolutionary flair has a tantalizing menu based on a famous 19th-century cookbook, A Gift to Young Housewives, by Yelena Molokhovets. Cooking is elaborate and highly traditional here, along the lines of baked venison fillet in lingonberry and juniper sauce, pan-fried foie gras with orange-flovored brioche, or Astrakhan sturgeon braised in champagne. Waiters show deference to the guests, serving them in a pleasantly ceremonial, but not genuine, manner. With only six tables, this dining experience is as intimate as it is expensive.

    10 ul. Radischeva, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
    812-929--2247

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 3. Restoran

    $$$ | Vasilievsky Island

    Spacious, with soft lighting and earth tones, the surroundings are at once stylish and traditional, and as straightforward as the name, which means "restaurant" in Russian. The menu of traditional classics is as nonfussy as the decor; try the sterlet (sturgeon) baked in fragrant herbs with horseradish sauce, veal with mashed potatoes and chanterelles, or the house-made pelmeni (dumplings) filled with lamb, beef, or potatoes and dill. A long, wooden table at the entrance supports a wide selection of house-made flavored vodkas in rustic glass decanters.

    2 per. Tamozhenny, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 199034, Russia
    812-327--8979

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 4. Tsar

    $$$$ | City Center

    This large, bustling, and brightly lit dining room where oil paintings commemorate various Romanovs seems to be lifted right off the pages of War and Peace, and the dining experience is truly royal. A meal might begin with the classic Russian appetizer of layers of herring enclosing a beet vinaigrette and move on to beef Stroganoff or a Pozharskaya cutlet, served with sizzling hot potatoes, made in a copper pan. Despite the grandeur, the atmosphere is pleasantly relaxed and the service is anything but intimidating.

    12 ul. Sadovaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-640--1616

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 5. 1913

    $$$$ | Admiralteisky

    The name evokes the last days of Imperial Russia, and the era is celebrated in low-key, comfortably elegant surroundings where a menu offers a huge selection of Russian favorites served in huge portions. The emphasis is on game and fish; an excellent and traditional meal might begin with mushroom soup or borscht, followed by sturgeon or salmon.

    13/2 Voznesensky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-418--3013

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
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  • 6. Abrikosov

    $$ | City Center

    At this soothing place to take a break with a good view of Nevsky prospekt, you can enjoy coffee, ice cream, and scrumptious cakes, or a whole range of traditional Russian and European dishes. Out of the Russian menu try borscht (beetroot soup) with sour cream or pickled herring and mushrooms. In summer Abrikosov offers an open terrace.

    40 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191011, Russia
    812-312--2457
  • 7. Belmond Grand Hotel Europe

    $$$$ | City Center

    You can enjoy a pot of tea or a glass of champagne, served with bowls of strawberries, in this lovely mezzanine café. You can also order unique chocolates made at the hotel's own factory. Take a peek at the art-nouveau lobby, furnished with stained-glass windows and antique furnishings.

    1/7 ul. Mikhailovskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191011, Russia
    812-329--6000

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch Mon.--Sat.
  • 8. Chekhov

    $$$ | Petrograd Side

    Wicker furniture, handwoven napkins, and a birdcage with canaries and finches add to the flavor of an early-20th-century Russian country house, and the menu also lovingly re-creates Russian recipes of yesteryear. Emerging from the family-run kitchen are such carefully prepared dishes as roasted venison with warm fruit, Spanish garlic, and port wine sauce and Caspian sturgeon fillet with salmon roe, leek cream, and morel mushroom sauce. Libations include a nice selection of fruit liqueurs.

    4 ul. Petropavlovskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197022, Russia
    812-234--4511

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 9. Idiot

    $$ | City Center

    A favorite among St. Petersburg expatriates, this restaurant serves hearty vegetarian Russian food, good seafood, and nice Italian coffee. The background music leans heavily on Charles Aznavour, Louis Armstrong, and Ella Fitzgerald. Add occasional art exhibits, chess and backgammon sets, and a small library, and you have several excuses to linger.

    82 nab. Moika, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-946--5173-information
  • 10. LeChaim

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The kosher cuisine, served in the spacious basement of St. Petersburg's Great Choral Synagogue, is as popular with a nonreligious crowd as it is with dietary adherents. Such favorites as chicken schnitzel and trout fillet wrapped in grape leaves are served in generous portions and at very reasonable prices. Keep in mind that the restaurant can be difficult to find, since the doorway is discreetly marked, and is often booked for weddings and other events that take place in the synagogue, so call ahead.

    2 Lermontovsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190121, Russia
    812-572--5616

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards, Closed Sat.
  • 11. Pushka Inn

    $$ | City Center

    The extensive menu includes blini (pancakes) with caviar, homemade pelmeni (meat dumplings), borscht, and vareniki (a Ukrainian dish—dumplings filled with all kinds of stuffing, such as cabbage, cherries, and mushrooms). The name is both a play on Pushkin's name and the Russian word for cannon—which explains the military-theme paintings and the miniature cannon near the entrance.

    14 nab. Moika, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-314--0663-Table Reservation
  • 12. Russian Vodka Room No.1

    $$$$ | Admiralteisky

    Discreet and genteel, this spacious one-room venue could come straight out of one of Chekhov's stories and is the perfect place to try various vodkas and home-brewed liqueurs. Alcoholic sampling requires sustenance, and a menu offers many traditional choices, with an emphasis on fish dishes. A starter group platter features four types of smoked fish—including omul (cisco, a kind of whitefish) from Lake Baikal and sig, a whitefish from Russia's far east. A memorable main course is fried pike-perch from Lake Ladoga, served with mashed potatoes.

    4 ul. Konnogvardeisky bulvar, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-570--6420

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 13. Sadko

    $$$ | Admiralteisky

    Ruby red chandeliers and modern interpretations of Russian folkloric motifs provide a perfect prelude to a night at the nearby Marrinsky Theatre. The menu, however, is as down to earth as the surroundings are fanciful, focusing on such popular Russian classics as borscht, breaded veal cutlets, and beef Stroganoff. The wine list is particularly well chosen.

    2 ul. Glinka, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-903--2373
  • 14. Teplo

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The name means "warmth" in Russian and this popular spot does indeed make guests feel warm all over, with a country house atmosphere (a fire blazes and the main dining room is lined with bookshelves) and menu laden with cozy, expertly made classics, such as marinated beets, salted herring, meat pies, and borscht. The signature dish is a warm salad of juicy chicken livers and crispy strips of bacon surrounded by salad leaves, cherry tomatoes, and herby croutons. The three-course-plus-a-drink business lunch is an excellent value, and accordingly popular.

    45 ul. Bolshaya Morskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-570--1974

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 15. Teremok

    $ | Vladimirskaya

    At the spacious branch of this famed blini chain, the signature dish is cooked right in front of you. New flavors arrive every few months, and other Russian dishes, such as pelmeni and a choice of soups, are also available.

    93 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
    812-277--0881

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